CONTAINS INFORMATION ON ALL AREAS OF ORNAMENTATION INCLUDING
DESIGNS * JEWELRY * TEXTILES * DESIGNERS * MANUFACTURERS
PERFUMERS * HALLMARKS * HISTORICAL INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY ASSOCIATED WITH ORNAMENTATION
B
B *ADJOINING DOUBLE "B" - JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BASKIN BROS., MOBILE ALA., SINCE 1949
B *WITHIN ORNATE FRAME IS THE JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR JOSEPH BOBLEY JEWELRY, NEW YORK SINCE 1955.
B *WITHIN A "STAR" - JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR B.A. BALLOU & CO., PROVIDENCE, R.I.SINCE 1947.
B *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR H.F. BARROWS CO., NORTH ATTLEBORO, MA. SINCE 1901
B *SCRIPT "B" OR "BOW B" TRADEMARK FOR BEAUCRAFT, INC. PROVIDENCE, R.I. JEWELRY MFG. SINCE 1961.
B *WITHIN A DIAMOND - JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR MARK OF BROOKS & CO. NEW YORK SINCE 1962
B *LARGE RIBBON SCRIPT "B" - JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR FEDERATED DEPT.STORES,NEW YORK SINCE 1939.
B *WITHIN A MODIFIED ARROW SHAPE - JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF M.FABRIKANT & SONS NEW YORK SINCE 1962
B *ON MEXICAN STERLING USED BY BERNICE GOODSPEED (1935-1971) SHE AND HER HUSBAND HAD A SMALL SHOP AND DESIGNED IN THE PRE COLUMBIAN STYLE.
B A R *LETTERS "AR" WITHIN THE "B" - TRADEMARK OF BAR-TAN MFG. PROVIDENCE, RI. C.1965
BF *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR B.F. HIRSCH, NEW YORK SINCE 1935
B.A.B. *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF B.A. BALLOU & CO., PROVIDENCE, RI. 1908-1949
BB CO. *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF BLISS BRO.CO., ATTLEBORO, MA. SINCE 1908.
BB *INSIDE UPSIDEDOWN "V" - JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF BARNABUS BARNA, BEVERLY HILLS, CA. SINCE 1962
BB *DOUBLE B'S WITH INTERLOCKING CIRCLES - JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BINDER BROS.,NEW YORK SINCE 1920
BB *WITHIN A TRIANBLE - JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BERMAN BROS., PITTSBURG, PA. SINCE 1962.
BBC *WITHIN AN OVAL - JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BERNARD BLUM CORP., NEW YORK SINCE 1963
B & C *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR B&C MFG., NEW YORK, MFG. OF CLASPS/FINDINGS SINCE 1962
B CO. *LARGE "B" SMALL CO. - JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BENJAMIN & CO., NEW YORK SINCE 1962.
BC *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BARONET CREATIONS, NEW YORK SINCE 1962
BCJ *BEVERLY CREATIVE JEWELERS, LOS ANGELES CA., JEWELRY TRADEMARK SINCE 1962
BAACK, *HAMBURG, BERLIN, GERMANY METALWORKER/JEWELRY DESIGNER C.1895 SIEGMUND
BABETTE LINE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR W&R JEWELRY, ATTLEBORO, MA SINCE 1944
BABETTO, GIAMPAOLO *ARTIST/JEWELLERY DESIGNER BORN IN PADUA, ITALY IN 1947.
BABISHE *(BABEESH) THONG, CORD OF THREAD MADE OF RAWHIDE. AMERICAN INDIAN
BABANI *PERFUMERY.PARIS, FRANCE; C.1925; "YASMAK", "ABDULLA"
BABCOCK *PERFUMERY.NY NY; C. 1920 ; "ACME", "WE MODERNS"
BABLET,PAUL *FRENCH JEWELER/DESIGNER C.1889 - ?
BABS * PERFUMERY.NY, NY, C. 1940; "BLOSSOMSCENT", "YESTERYEAR" CREATORS
BABY DARLING *JEWELRY TRADEMARK (CHILDRENS) USED BY LIPPMAN, SPIER & HAHN, NEW YORK SINCE 1925.
BABYFAIR *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY E.M. ROSENTHAL JEWELRY, CO., WASHINGTON, DC FOR
CHILDREN'S JEWELRY SINCE 1940
BACCARAT * PRODUCER OF FINE GLASS AVIDLY SOUGHT BY COLLECTORS. THE CRISTALLERIES DE
BACCARAT WAS FOUNDED IN 1822 IN FRANCE AND CONTINUES TO PRODUCE THE
HIGHEST QUALITY GLASSWARE INCLUDING PERFUME BOTTLES, TODAY. THEY MADE
PERFUME BOTTLES FOR ELIZABETH ARDEN, ARYS, ATKINSON, BOUJOIS, BICHARA,
CORDAY, COTY, DELETTREZ, D'ORSAY, CARON, FONTANIS, GABILLA, GRENOVILLE,
GUERLAIN, RICHARD, JACKEL, T. JONES, LENTHERIC, MOLINARD, MYON, ORIZA, L.,
LEGRAND, JEAN PATOU, RAMSES, ROGER AND GALLET, RIMMEL, SILKA, SCHIAPARELLI,
VIOLET, VOLNAY, YBRY, YARDLEY AND HOUBIGANT.
BACHELOR *TRADEMARK FOR STUART A. THOMPKINS/BACHELOR BUTTON PRODUCTS FOR MENS
BUTTON ITEMS SINCE 1952
BADGE *INSIGNIA OF MEMBERSHIP OR OFFICE USED SINCE THE 17TH CENTURY IN SEVERAL
DIFFERENT FORMS-SOME PINNED ON AND SOME SUSPENDED FROM A CHAIN.
BAER, WILDE *ATTLEBORO, MA. MFG. OF BUTTONS, TIE PINS AND RELATED ITEMS. C.1915-1931
BAER MARJORIE * SAN FRANCISCO JEWELRY DESIGNER USING BEADS, HAND HAMMERED STYLES 1960 - PRESENT
BAGATELLE *(BAG A TELL) TRIFLE; SOMETHING OF NO IMPORTANCE.
BAGUETTE *A GEM OR STONE USUALLY SMALL, CUT IN THE SHAPE OF A RECTANGLE. OFTEN USED TO
SET OFF OTHER LARGER STONES. EXPENSIVE CUT LARGE. MADE POPULAR IN THE
CUBISM INTEREST OF THE 1920'S.
*FRENCH FOR "ROD"
BAGS * SEE PURSES
BAHRS, ULRIKE *JEWELLERY DESIGNER BORN 1944 IN GREVESMUHLEN, GDR.
BAIL * A WIRE TRIANGLE TO ATTACH A PENDANT TO A LOOP OR CHAIN.
BAILEY, BANKS *JEWELRY DESIGNERS/MFG. PHILADELPHIA, PA. 1832-PRESENT. BEGAN AS BAILEY & KITCHEN C.
&BIDDLE 1832 IN PHILADELPHIA. NOW A MEMBER OF THE ZALE CORP.. ALSO USE B B & B AS TRADEMARK.
KNOWN FOR QUALITY AND EXCLUSIVE DESIGNS.
BAKELAND *TRADEMARK USED BY ARSENE J. VAN EXEM, NEW YORK FOR JEWELRY MADE WITH
PEARLS AND RHINESTONES SINCE 1922.
BAKELITE * SYNTHETIC RESON CHEMICALLY FORMULATED AND NAMED AFTER BELGIAN
(BAY KA LITE) CHEMIST L. H. BAEKELAND IN 1909. IT WAS USED FOR MOLDING ITEMS WHICH WERE
PREVIOUSLY DONE OF CELLULOID OR HARD RUBBER . BAKELITE IS VERY
COLLECTIBLE IN ALL OF ITS FORMS - MOST POPULARLY JEWELRY, BUTTONS, RADIO
CASES, ETC. BAKELITE HAS BECOME TO BE USED AS A GENERIC TERM MEANING
ANY TYPE OF EARLY THERMO PLASTIC BUT IS NOT ACTUALLY BAKELITE UNLESS
SIGNED. TO DETERMINE AN ACTUAL PIECE OF BAKELITE, RUB YOU FINGERS ACROSS IT,
WARMING IT AND FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE ODOR OR ANOTHER
NONDESTRUCTIVE WAY TO TEST BAKELITE IS BY IMMERSING THE PIECE IN
HOT WATER (NOT WITH RHINESTONES, PLEASE). THE SMELL SHOULD BE ACRID I.E.
FORMALDEHYDE OR CARBOLIC ACID) BAKELITE ALSO HAS A CLUNKY SOUND ,UNLIKE
THE LIGHTER CELLULOID, WHEN KNOCKING TWO PIECES TOGETHER. HOWEVER, THE
BEST DETERMINATION IS EXPERIENCE AND SOMETIMES EVEN THE MOST
EXPERIENCED IS FOOLED. IF NECESSARY YOU CAN DO THE "HOT NEEDLE" TEST IN
AN OUT OF SIGHT PLACE. HEAT THE NEEDLE AND THEN PRICK THE PIECE
I MMEDIATELY SNIFFING THE ODOR. (NOT A BIG HOLE!) ALSO BE AWARE THAT NON
THERMOPLASTIC PIECES WILL MELT, THERMOSET WILL NOT. BAKELITE IS ALSO BEING
REPRODUCED BUT OBVIOUS GIVEAWAYS ARE COLORS AND SHAPES
CHARACTERISTIC SOLID COLORS INCLUDE LIGHT YELLOW, DARK YELLOW,
BUTTERSCOTCH, PEA GREEN, DEEP GREEN, GRASS GREEN, LIME GREEN, BLACK,
BROWN, MAROON, DEEP MAROON, RED, ORANGE, NAVY AND DEEP NAVY BLUE. THE
MARBELIZED COLORS INCLUDE GREENS, GOLDS, TORTOISE, BLUE GREEN, ROSE,
PLUM, PEACH AND LOTS OF YELLOW SHADES. THERE ARE SOME CLEAR OR
"VASELINE" PIECES. SEVERAL WONDERFUL BOOKS ARE AVAILABLE THAT DISCUSS
THE PLASTIC CRAZE. NEW BAKELITE IS BEING MADE. PIECES ARE BEING MELTED DOWN
AND REMOLDED INTO OLD AND NEW DESIGNS SO STUDY THE OLDER PIECES WELL.
BAKER, OLIVER *ENGLISH JEWELRY DESIGNER/CRAFTSMAN C.1900
BAKKER, GIJS * JEWELRY DESIGNER/ARTIST BORN 1942 IN AMERSFOORT, HOLLAND
BALAS RUBY *NOT A RUBY AT ALL BUT A RED SPINEL IN JEWELRY.
BALFOUR, L.G. *JEWELRY MFG., ATTLEBORO, MA. SINCE 1936 USED THE "B" MARK WITHIN A MODIFIED
SHIELD SHAPE. SPECIALIZING IN FRATERNAL/INSIGNIA JEWELRY.
BALENCIAGA * PERFUMERY.PARIS, FRANCE C.1944; "28", "QUADRILLE", "PRELUDE"
BALENCIAGA, CRISTOBAL * SPANISH FASHION DESIGNER BORN IN 1895. HIS FASHION HOUSE CLOSED IN 1968.
HE WAS ADMIRED FOR HIS PASSEMENTERIE, AND SPANISH LACES AND FOR HIS
LAVISH USE OF COLOR COMBINATIONS.
BALIE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY MORRIS BALICER, NEW YORK FOR MENS JEWELRY
SINCE 1922
BALL *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY MILDRED L. BALL, WINSTON-SALEM, N.C. SINCE 1959
BALL CHAIN *TYPE OF CHAIN COMPOSED OF SMALL METAL BALLS JOINED BY A METAL CONNECTION.
BALLERINA *NAME AND BALLERINA FIGURE WAS USED BY UNITED PEARL CORP. AS THEIR TRADE-
MARK FOR PEARL JEWELRY SINCE 1954.
BALLESTEROS *MEXICAN FAMILY OPERATED STERLING JEWELRY BUSINESS SINCE 1937 TO PRESENT.
MOST PIECES ARE MARKED "BALLESTEROS".
BALLET JEWELS, INC.*JEWELRY MFG./DESIGN. CURRENTLY IN BUSINESS IN NY.
BALLOU *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BETTER RHINESTONE JEWELRY CO., NEW YORK SINCE
THE 1940-50'S. ALSO "B" INSIDE A STAR. AND INITIALS B.A.B.
BALLOU *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR B.A.BALLOU & CO., PROVIDENCE RI SINDE 1919 - 1949.
BALLY, BORIS *CONTEMPORARY STUDIO JEWELRY DESIGNER SPECIALIZING IN MACHINERY/ROBOTIC JEWELRY
BALMAIN *PERFUMERY IN PARIS, FRANCE; C. 1950'S; "ELYSEES", "VENT VERT"
PIERRE *PARIS FASHION DESIGNER WITH COUTURE HOUSE OPENING IN 1945. HE WORKED FOR LUCIEN
LELONG IN 1939 PRIOR TO OPENING HIS OWN HOUSE. HE DIED IN 1982 AND HIS ASSISTANT,
ERIK MORTENSEN ASSUMED THE ROLE OF COUTURIER.
BALTIC *IN JEWELRY - THE LOCATION FOR EARLY AMBER.
BAMBOO *USED IN ORNAMENTATION. HOLLOW STALKS WERE MADE INTO CYLINDRICAL BEADS.
BAMBOO *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY AVON PRODUCTS, NEW YORK SINCE 1970
MAGIC
BANAL *TRITE, COMMONPLACE. OF NO INDIVIDUAL TASTE OR INTEREST. FASHIONLESS.
BANDEAU *TYPE OF HEAD ORNAMENT IN FORM OF NARROW BAND ENCIRCLING THE FOREHEAD
(BAN DOE) NARROW BRASSIERE OR BRA. ALSO NARROW BAND ENCIRCLING THE HEAD AS A
WREATH OF FLOWERS, ETC. ALSO BANDELET SUCH AS THOSE WORN BY MEDIEVAL
ITALIAN WOMEN AND ALSO IN FRANCE AND ENGLAND.
BANDED AGATE *STRIPED AGATE OF VARIOUS COLORS - BLACK, BROWN, WHITE SOMETIMES USED IN
VICTORIAN HARDSTONE CAMEOS AND BEADS.
BANGLE *ROUND OR OVAL BRACELET, RIGID RATHER THAN FLEXIBLE SOMETIMES SLIPPED OVER
THE HAND RATHER THAN CLASPED. POPULAR DURING THE VICTORIAN PERIOD.
BAPST *SEVERAL GENERATIONS OF PARISIAN JEWELLERS WHO WERE DESCENDED FROM
BAPST FAMILY ANCESTORS FROM HALL, SWABIA IN SOUTHERN GERMANY. PROMINENT FOR MAKING
COURT JEWELRY AND PRODUCING ARTICLES MADE OF "STRASS". THEY SETTLED IN
PARIS WHERE THEY BECAME PROMINENT MAKING COURT JEWELRY.
BAPST & FALIZE *FRENCH JEWELRY/ORNAMENTATION DESIGNERS 1871-1892. USING "B & F" MARK.
BAR BROOCH *TYPE OF BROOCH IN FORM OF HORIZONTAL BAR WITH DECORATION ALONG THE LENGTH
USING VARIOUS GEMSTONES AND MOTIFS. SOMETIMES CALLED BAR "PINS".
BARBARA *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY GEMEX CO., SINCE 1930
BARBARA LEE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY ASSOCIATED MERCHANDISING, NEW YORK FOR FAUX
PEARL NECKLACES. SINCE 1939.
BARBARIC *ITEMS MADE DURING THE DARK AGES FROM CIRCA AD 410 UNTIL AD 870 WHEN THE
BARBARIAN TRIBES (FRANKS, LOMBARDS, ANGLO-SAXONS, ETC.) WERE SWEEPING
WEST OVER EUROPE AND BRINGING WITH THEM THE CULTURE OF THE ORIENT TO
INFLUENCE ROMAN ART.
BARBIE *TRADEMARK USED BY MATTEL, INC., HAWTHORNE, CA. FOR SETS OF JEWELRY FOR GIRLS
IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE FAMOUS "BARBIE" DOLL.
BARCLAY *WITHIN A PALLET WITH WORDS "ART IN JEWELRY" - TRADEMARK FOR BARCLAY JEWELRY
INC., PROVIDENCE, R.I. SINCE 1948.
BARCLAY, *JEWELRY MFG./DESIGNER 1930-1940. MCCLELLAND B ARCLAY, WELL KNOWN ILLUSTRATOR
MCCLELLAND DURING THE 1930'S ALSO PRODUCED JEWELRY WITH A DECIDEDLY DECO APPEAL. HE WAS
KILLED IN ACTION DURING WWII. HIS DESIGNS SOMETIMES FEATURED PAVE RHINESTONES
WITH UNUSUAL SHAPED FOCUS STONES. ALWAYS ELEGANT AND WONDERFUL FINDS.
BARJON *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR M.EDWARD POPE, ALTADENA, CA. SINCE 1961
BARLEYCORN *TRACE CHAIN WHERE LINKS ARE SHAPED LIKE ISOSCELES TRIANGLE WITH THE APEX OF
CHAIN ONE LINK LOOPED AROUND THE BASE OF THE ADJOINING LINK.
BARODA *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR R.L.GRIFFITH & SON, PROVIDENCE, R. SINCE 1912.
BAROQUE *DESIGN USED WITH HEAVY ORNAMENTATION AND CURVED LINES.
BARREL *SHAPE OF A TYPE OF BEAD AND ALSO A TYPE OF NECKLACE OR BRACELET FASTENER.
BARRETT *HAIR CLASP. MADE AVAILABLE IN A WIDE VARIETY OF MATERIALS FROM PLASTIC TO
CHASED SILVER AND GOLD. METALLIC B ARRETTS WERE POPULAR FROM 1895
THROUGH THE 20'S WHEN THE PLASTICS BECAME POPULAR. SOME WERE SET WITH
RHINESTONES, GEMS, PEARLS. THEY ENJOY MUCH POPULARITY TODAY.
BAROQUE *FRENCH FOR "BIZARRE", OR FROM THE PORTUGUESE "BARROCO" WHICH MEANS
IRREGULAR.THIS PERIOD WAS A UNION OF ARCHETECTURE, PAINTING AND SCULPTURE
IN THE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY AN CREATED AN OVERWHELMING AND DIRECT
APPEAL TO THE SENSES OF THE BEHOLDER. A BLEND OF ILLUSION, LIGHT AND COLOR.
LARGE-SCALED BOLD DETAILS, SWEEPING CURVES AND A WEALTH OF
ORNAMENTATION.
BAROQUE *NATURAL PEARL OF CULTURED PEARL OF IRREGULAR SHAPE FORMED BY THE PEARL
OYSTER PEAR AROUND SOME IRREGULARLY SHAPED INTRUSION.
BAROQUES *IN JEWELRY - GEMSTONES OR BEADS ESPECIALLY PEARLS OF IRREGULAR SHAPES.
BARTON, ANN *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BERTHA J. HAIG, BOSTON, MA. SINCE 1938
BARTON,NY *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR B.HAIG BOSTON, MASS. INCL. COMPACTS, ETC. SINCE
1938.
BARTOSIK, KAREL * BORN IN TAMWORTH, ENGLAND IN 1942, THIS DESIGNER WORKED WITH ANDREW GRIMA IN LONDON
AND DESIGNED THE WEDDING GIFT TO PRINCE OF WALES/LADY DIANA FROM THE ENGLISH CHAMBER
ORCHESTRA.
BAS-RELIEF *SLIGHT RAISED PATTERN ON A FLAT SURFACE.
BASALT *DARK GREY TO BLACK VOLCANIC ROCK USED IN EGYPTIAN JEWELRY AND IMITATED
BY JOSIAH WEDGWOOD IN HIS PORTRAIT MEDALLIONS.
BASSE TAILLE *(FRENCH) LITERALLY - SHALLOW CUT. TECHNIQUE OF DECORATION BY ENAMELLING ON
A METAL BASE WHERE THE DESIGN WAS FIRST MADE IN SEVERAL LEVELS BY
CHASING, CARVING ENGRAVING OR STAMPING OR ENGINE TURNING AND THEN
COVERING THE SURFACE WITH TRANSPARENT OR TRANSLUCENT ENAMEL AND THEN
FIRED.
BASSO RELIEVO *LOW RELIEF CARVING
BASTARD *VARIETY OF AMBER THAT HAS CLOUDY APPEARANCE DUE TO MANY EMBEDDED AIR
AMBER BUBBLES.
BATAL, REBECCA *CONTEMPORARY STUDIO JEWELRY DESIGNER/ARTIST WITH FLOWING, SURREAL DESIGNS.
BATEAU NECK * (BA TOE) BOATWHAPE NECKLINE HIGH IN FRONT AND BACK/POINTED AT SHOULDERS.
BATES & BACON *JEWELRY MFG., ATTLEBORO, MASS., C.1900-1930'S. MFG. FOBS, LOCKETS, CHAINS, ETC.
BATIK *DECORATION TECHNIQUE THAT USESE WAX-RESIST AND DYE
BATISTE *(BA TEEST) SOFT SHEER COTTON OR LINEN FABRIC OF PLAIN WEAVE USUALLY IN
DELICATE COLORS USED FOR HANDKERCHIEFS, LINGERIE, NECKWEAR, ETC.
BATTENBERG *COARSE FORM OR RENAISSANCE LACE.
LACE
BATTERSEA *ENAMELED COPPER ARTICLES MADE AT YORK HOUSE IN THE BATTERSEA DISTRICT OF
ENAMEL LONDON. SMALL PERSONAL ARTICLES SUCH AS SNUFF BOXES, PATCH BOXES AND
WATCH CASES. CIRCA 1753-6. THESE ITEMS ARE STILL PRODUCED BY VARIOUS
COMPANIES AND ALL ARE COLLECTIBLE AND USUALLY BRING HIGH PRICES.
BAUBLE *REFERS TO ANY DANGLING ORNAMENTATION.
BAUER *TRADEMARK FOR "A PIECE OF THE RAINBOW" CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY DESIGN CO. FOUNDED
BY DOROTHY BAUER. DESIGNS ARE QUALITY AND WHIMSICAL.
BAUER, FRANK *BORN IN 1942 IN HANOVER, GERMANY FRG THIS JEWELRY DESIGNER OPENED A WORKSHOP IN
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA.
BAUXITE *A SOFT RED ALUMINUM ORE THAT IS USED FOR THE MAKING OF BEADS, DISCS, ETC. FROM NIGERIA.
BAVARIAN LACE *SIMPLE BOBBIN LACE. ALSO SEE TORCHON OR LACES.
BAYEUX *FRENCH ROMANESQUE EMBROIDERED TAPESTRY COMMEMORATING THE VICTORY OF
THE TAPESTRY NORMANS IN ENGLAND.
BAZARR *MARKETPLACE; GROUP OF SHOPS OR STALLS OR IN MORE MODERN TERMS A "FLEA"
MARKET !
BEAD *ORNAMENT WITH A HOLE END TO END INTO WHICH A NEEDLE AND STRING IS INSERTED
FOR NECKLACES, BRACELETS, ETC. MANY GLASS BEADS CAME BROM CZECHOSLAVAKIA
IN THE 19TH CENTURY. MANY GLASS FACTORIES MAKE THEM TODAY BUT THE OLDER
BEADS ARE MORE VALUABLE. BEADS WERE USED EVEN IN ANCIENT AND PRIMITIVE
CULTURES AS MONEY OR TRADE ITEMS. THEY WERE IN MANY DIFFERENT SHAPES
AND SOME WERE HAND DECORATED OR PAINTED.
BEAD LOOM *THE FRAMEWORK FOR BEAD EMBROIDERY/WEAVING.
BEAD TIP *SMALL CUP WITH A HOOK USED AT THE END OF A NECKLACE OR BRACELET TO HIDE THE KNOT AND
PROVIDE AN ATTACHMENT FOR CLASPS.
BEADS O' PARADISE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR LEE PELZMAN, NEW YORK SINCE 1958
BEAD SET *REFERS TO A SETTING WHERE THE STONES ARE SECURED BY RAISED BEADS
BEATON, CECIL *DESIGNER AND FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER.
BEAU *1947-PRESENT. FOUNDED BY LUIGI RUSSO AND RINALDO SACCOCCIO IN PROVIDENCE RI AND
DESIGNING STERLING SILVER AND 24K OVERLAY JEWELRY. SOME PIECES SIGNED B-STERLING.
JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BEAUCRAFT, INC., PROVIDENCE, RI
BEAU BAIT *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR HABERMAN, INC., CINCINNATI OHIO SINCE 1961
BEAU BRUMMEL *ARBITER OF ENGLISH MEN'S FASHION IN THE EARLY 19TH CENTURY. NUMEROUS ARTICLES
OF MEN'S WEAR WERE NAMED AFTER HIM.
BEAU BRUMMEL *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR SANDS MFG. CO., PROVIDENCE, RI. FOR MENS JEWELRY SINCE 1928
BEAUCRAFT *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF BEAUCRAFT, PROVIDENCE, R. SINCE 1947. MOSTLY STERLING
ITEMS INCLUDING NOVELTY. ALSO SEE BEAU STERLING.
BEAU JEWELS * BOWMAN FOSTER INC. 1950-1970'S COSTUME JEWELERY. KNOWN FOR CREATIVE USE OF RHINESTONES
BEAUTIFUL *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF AVON PRODUCTS, INC., NEW YORK SINCE 1971
BEGUILERS
BEAUTY BOX *VANTIY CASE/BOX CONTAINING BEAUTY AND COSMETIC ITEMS OFTEN PURCHASED
CONTAINING PRODUCTS - THE BOX BEING THE "BONUS"
BEAUTY PINS *SMALL PINS USED ON LINGEREE, COLLARS, ETC. ALSO CALLED HANDY PINS OR LACE PINS
ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR MFG. WAS SHREVE & CO. C.1910. AT THAT TIME A 14K GOLD
BEAUTY PIN WITH A DIAMOND SOLD FOR $4.50!
BEAUTYCREST *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF J.J.SCHMUKLER & SONS, NEW YORK SINCE 1930
BEAUZAL *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF ZAYRE CORP., NATIC, MAS. SINCE 1963
BECKEN *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF A.C.BECKEN, CHICAGO, ILL. SINCE 1934
BECKER, FRIEDRICH *JEWELRY DESIGNER/ARTIST BORN IN 1922 IN ENDE, FRG/
BEDOUIN *ARTICLES MADE AND WORN BY THE BEDOUIN TRIBES IN SAUDI ARABIA. MOST ALWAYS OF
SILVER, FREQUENTLY SET WITH TURQUOISE.
BEETLE *THE IRIDESCENT GREEN BODIES OF BEETLES AND USED IN JEWELRY MAKING . ALSO SEE SCAROB.
BEGEER, *AMSTERDAM, HOLLAND, METALWORKER IN SILVER (CAREL BEGEER 1883-1956)
CORNEILUS
BEGGAR *INEXPENSIVE STRINGS OF MULTICOLOR BEADS OF AGATE OR JASPER FROM INDIA.
BEADS
BEGUILING *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF AVON PRODUCTS, INC., NEW YORK SINCE 1972
BEHRENS, PETER *JEWELRY/METALWORKER IN MUNICH C. 1868-1940
BEJEWELED *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF GAYLIN JEWELRY, NEW YORK SINCE 1946
BEL - AIR *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF BEL AIR INC, NEW YORK FOR MENS JEWLRY SINCE 1962
BEL - COR *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BEL-COR, INC., CHICAGO, ILL SINCE 1947
BELCANO *PERFUMERY.JERSEY CITY NJ; C. 1940'S; "ALL AGOG", NIGHT BLOOMS"
BELCHER *SCARF OF NECKTIE OF GARISH COLOR ORIGINALLY A BLUE NECKCLOTH MARKED WITH WHITE
SPOTS HAVING BLUE CENTERS AND NAMED FOR JIM BELCHER, AN ENGLISH PUGILIST.
BELCHER *IN JEWELRY - A HEAVY PRONGED RING SETTING POPULAR AROUND THE TURN OF THE
SETTING CENTURY.
BELCO CO. *COSMETIC MFG./ACCESSORY DESIGNER - RADIO GIRL PRODUCTS.
BELL TRADING *JEWELRY MFT., ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO/DIV. OF SUNBELL CORP., SINCE 1932. SPECIALIZING
POST IN STERLING, TURQUOISE, COPPER JEWELRY AND NOVELTY ITEMS. ALSO USED A GRAPHIC
BELL SUSPENDED FROM A POST.
BELLIS, JOHN O .*SILVER METALWORKER - CALIFORNIA C.1910
BELNORD *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR SWISS RADIUM AND DIAL PAINTING CO., NEW YORK SINCE 1949
BELPERRON, SUZANNE *FRENCH JEWELRY DESIGNER IN PARIS C. 1920-30]
BELTS *USED TO ENCIRCLE THE WAIST AND HOLD TROUSERS OR SKIRTS FIRM. METALLIC BELTS
AND LARGE METAL BUCKLES WERE POPULAR IN THE LATE 18TH CENTURY AND AGAIN IN
THE 30'S AND 40'S. IN VICTORIAN TIMES THE BELTS OFTEN MADE OF GOLD OR SILVER WERE
USED TO ACCENTUATE A SMALL WAIST. SOME WERE CHASED, ENGRAVED OR DECORATED
WITH GEMS. BELTS WERE CONSIDERED A TYPE OF JEWELRY AS FAR BACK AS ANCIENT TIMES.
WEALTH WAS SOMETIMES DETERMINED BY THE RICHNESS OF THE BELT.
TYPES OF BELTS:
BALDRICK - WORN DIAGONALLY FROM ONE SHOULDER TO OPPOSITE HIP
CHAIN - MADE OF VARIOUS SIZES OF CHAINS AND SOMETIMES DECORATED
CINCTURE - (SINK-CHER) TWISTED SILK, RAYON OR ROPE WORN BY CLERGY
CONTOUR - CURVED TO FIT THE BODY - POPULAR IN 1890'S
CORSELET - WIDE AND ENCLOSING THE RIB CAGE, SOMETIMES LACED
COWBOY - USUALLY WIDE LEATHER AND TOOLED
CUMMERBUND - WIDE FABRIC BELT SOMETIMES PLEATED
GAUCHO - (GOW-CHO) USUALLY MEDALLIONS OF LEATHER/METAL JOINED TOGETHER WITH
CHAINS. POPULAR IN LATE 1960'S. ORIGINATED W/SOUTH AMERICAN COWBOYS.
GREEK - LONG NARROW SASH CROSSING OVER CHEST AND WINDING AROUND WAIST
KIDNEY - VERY WIDE AND WORN WHEN MOTOCYCLING TO PREVENT INJURY
MESH - MADE OF VERY SMALL METAL LINKS FASTENED TO FORM FLEXIBLE BAND
MONEY - HAS HIDDEN COMPARTMENT FOR STORAGE OF MONEY
OBI - SASH 4-5 WIDE AT CENTER AND TAPERING TO 1 1/2" AT ENDS. WORN WRAPPED AROUND WAIST
ADOPTED FROM JAPANESE
POLO - WIDE LEATHER BELT ORIGINALLY WORN BY PLAYERS FOR PROTECTION
SAM BROWNE - HAS EXTENSION STRAP OVER RIGHT SHOULDER. MILITARY USE.
SERPENTINE - WAVY DESIGN BELT
SKIRT - ATTACHED PEPLUM POPULAR IN LATE 1960'S
SPAGHETTI - LONG NARROW CORD USUALLY SELF FABRIC SOMETIMES KNOTTED AT ENDS
THONG - WIDE LEATHER BELT WITH EYLETS AT EACH END FOR THREADING OF RAWHIDE.
TOOLED LEATHER - HANDMADE LEATHER WITH VARIOUS DESIGNS
WEBBED - USUALLY HEAVY CANVAS WITH A BUCKLE.
BENDEL *COUTURE AND RETAIL SHOP LOCATED IN NEW YORK ESTABLISHED IN 1897. STOCKED
HENRI READY TO WEAR AND FRENCH DESIGNED FASHIONS. INTRODUCED A PERFUME "UN PEU D'ELLE"
IN 1915.
BENEDICT & *JEWELRY MFG. OF PRECIOUS AND IMITATION/COSTUME JEWELRY; NEW YORK; 1904-1915
WARNER
BENHAM & *LONDON, ENGLAND COPPER METALWORKER C. 1900 (CHRISTOPHER DRESSER, DESIGNER)
FROUD
BENNARA *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF VARGAS MFG. CO., PROVIDENCE RI SINCE 1969
BENNETT, JAMIE *CONTEMPORARY STUDIO JEWELRY DESIGNER/ARTIST PREFERRING THE SCULPTURAL FORM
AND ENAMEL MERGING COLOR AND FORM.
BENSON, J.W. *LONDON, ENGLAND JEWELRY DESIGNER C.1874-PRESENT.
BENSON, *LONDON, ENGLAND METALWORKERS, ART NOUVEAU, LAMPS, ORNAMENTATION C.1854-1924.
WILLIAM SMITH THEIR MARK WAS W.A.S.B IN A RECTANGLE.
BENTLEE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF BEN FELSENTHAL & CO., NEW YORK SINCE 1917
BERGERE' *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY L.ERBERT & POHS, INC., NEW YORK SINCE 1947.
1947-1965 QUALITY JEWELRY THAT WAS PRODUCED INTO THE EARLY 1960'S. MOST PIECES
WERE MARKED. THEIR JEWELRY WAS CONSISTENT IN QUALITY AND DESIGN FROM
ELEGANT TO WHIMSICAL.
BERLIN IRON *CAST IRON JEWELRY MADE IN GERMANY EARLY IN THE 19TH CENTURY OFTEN INSCRIBED GOLD
GAB ICH FUR EISEN - I GAVE GOLD FOR IRON. TO FINANCE THE WAR OF LIBERATION AGAINST
NAPOLEON. THE VOGUE FOR BLACK IRON JEWELRY DIED OUT BEFORE THE MIDDLE OF THE
CENTURY AND VERY LITTLE OF IT REMAINS. VERY EXPENSIVE AND BEAUTIFUL. MOST HAS
WHORLS OR MESH FILIGREE OF FINE IRON WIRE, VERY DELICATE. SOME HAVE SLIM CHAINS
HOLDING CAMEOLIKE PLAQUES TOGETHER. NOT HEAVY.
BERLIN WORK *ALLOVER EMBROIDERY DONE IN BERLIN WOOL.
BERNARD,LES *JEWELRY DESIGNER. EXQUISITE ORNATE JEWELRY MUCH OF IT FOR HOLLYWOOD AND THE
1962-PRESENT MOVIE STARS. DESIGNED MUCH OF THE JEWELRY USED ON THE TELEVISION PROGRAM
"DYNASTY". THE COMPANY WAS FOUNDED BY HAROLD SHAPIRO WHO WAS ALSO ASSOCIATED
WITH VOGUE JEWELRY, AND HIS SON BERNARD. THEIR INNOVATIVE DESIGNS ARE MUCH
COLLECTED. THEY ARE CURRENTLY MARKED ON THE QVC TELEVISION BUYER CHANNEL AS
WELL AS QUALITY DEPARTMENT STORES. PARTICULARLY COLLECTIBLE ARE THE MOVEABLE
BROOCHES OF THE EARLY 1960'S.
BERNICE GOODSPEED*(1935-1971) MEXICAN STERLING JEWELRY DESIGNER IN PRE-COLUMBIAN DESIGNS.
BERNODOTTE, SIGVARD *DENMARK SILVER METALWORKER FROM 1931-1947
BERTHA *DEEP CAPELIKE COLLAR.
BERTHE *(FRENCH) LARGE COLLAR SHAPED NECKLACE OF A NETWORK OF GEMSTONES AND PEARLS
SOME SUSPENDED OR DROPPED.
BERYL *IN JEWELRY A GEMSTONE FAMILY INCLUDING EMERALD, AQUAMARINE, AND HELIODOR OR
GOLDEN BERYL. SLIGHTLY HARDER THAN QUARTZ AND STRONGLY DICHROIC (TWO SHADES OF
THE SAME COLOR). BERYL IS ASTROGICALLY ASSOCIATED WITH THE HOUSE OF SCORPIO AND
ALSO WITH GEMINI. IT WAS USED BY MYSTICS AND SEERS BECAUSE OF THE TRANSPARENCY
AND ABILITY TO GIVE "SIGHT" TO THE FUTURE. BERYL WAS ALSO SAID TO BE THE GEMSTONE
OF ETERNAL YOUTH AND TO DREAM OF BERYL SIGNALED HAPPY NEWS.
BERTOIA, HARRY *JEWELRY DESIGNER OF THE POSTWAR MODERNISTIC PERIOD (B1915-1978)
BETROTHAL *REFERRING TO SOMETHING GIVEN I.E.RING BY A GENTLEMAN TO HIS FIANCEE AS A TOKEN
OF HIS LOVE.
BETROTHAL * RINGS GIVEN AROUND THE END OF THE 19TH CENTURY OFTEN BEARING LOVE MOTIFS; TWO
RINGS HANDS HOLDING A HEART, CLASPED HANDS THAT OPENED TWO RINGS (CALLED A GEMEL RING
OR A FEDE RING) AND POSY RINGS WITH LOVE SAYINGS ENGRAVED OR ENAMELED ON THEM.
BETSY ROSS *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF L.HARVEY CLAP & CO., ATTLEBORO, MA. SINCE 1931
BETTA *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF HENRY DURLACHER/LS&L SETTING CO., NEW YORK SINCE 1970
BETTER *JEWELRY MFG. 1940'S AND 50'S
RHINESTONE CO.
BEVEL *AS A JEWELRY FINDING IT IS A DOUBLE PRONG USED TO HOLD HANGING JEWELRY ITEMS.
*ALSO THE EDGE OF A MIRROR CUT TO REFLECT BACK ONTO THE SURFACE.
BEZEL *ROUND COLLAR OR SETTING INTO WHICH A GEMSTONE IS SET OR THE FACETS ON THE TOP OF
THE GEMSTONE. ALSO CALLED A GROOVE OR FLANGE.
BFM *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR FRED M. BIRCH, PROVIDENCE, RI SINCE 1962 ON COSTUME & MEN'S
JEWELRY.
BH *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR B&H JEWELRY CO., NEW YORK SINCE 1962. SPECIALTY IN PILL BOXES,
CASES, CUFF LINKS,
BIBELOTS *FRENCH TERM FOR TRINKET OR KNICKKNACKS OR SMALL ART OBJECTS.
BIBETTE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY JOSEPH H. MEYER BROS. BROOKLYN, NY SINCE 1958
BICKSON *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY HARRY S. BICK & SONS, NEW YORK SINCE 1948
BICONE BEAD *BEAD THAT TAPERS TO A CONE AT BOTH ENDS.
BICONICAL *BEAD IN THE FORM OF TWO CONES JOINED AT THE BASES. SUCH BEADS ARE FOUND MOSTLY IN
THEIR ANCIENT FORM AMONG SUMERIAN AND EARLY EGYPTIAN.
BIG NAME *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY TRIFARI KRUSSMAN & FISHEL, CO., NEW YORK SINCE 1971
BRANDS
BIGELOW, *JEWELRY MFG. C.1830 - 1972., BOSTON MASS.
KENNARD & CO.
BIGOT, *PARIS FRANCE METALWORKER C.1862-1927
ALEXANDRE
BIJOU *(BEE ZHOO) JEWEL OR TRINKET ESPECIALLY OF DELICATE OR ELIGANT WORKMANSHIP.
BIJOUX CASCIO *ITALIAN JEWELRY DESIGN/MFG. FOUNDED BY GAETANO CASCIO AND REPRESENTED BY SUCH COMPANIES
AS BONWIT TELLER, LORD AND TAYLOR AND BLOOMINGDALES.
BIJOUTERIE *COLLECTIVE JEWELRY OR TRINKETS AS ABOVE MADE OF METALS USUALLY GOLD AND SILVER.
BILLY AND *NAME GIVEN TO OBJECTS OF A LARGE GROUP OF 19TH CENTURY JEWELRY FORGERIES
CHARLEY MADE AT TOWER HILL, LONDON BY TWO ILLITERATE MUD RAKERS.
BINDESBOLL, *JEWELRY, ARCHITECT; DENMARK C.1846-1908
THORVALD
BINGHAM, *C.1869 JEWELRY MFG. CLAIMING THE "GALVANIC RING" WHICH WAS TOUTED TO CURE JAMES RHEUMATISM PHILADELPHIA, PA.
BINNIE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY BINNIE CREATIONS, DEARBORN, MICHIGAN SINCE 1946
BIOMORPHIC *REFERS TO AMOEBALIKE SHAPE
BIRKS, HENRY *MOTREAL, CANADA SILVER METALWORKER/JEWELERY DESIGNER (H.BIRKS 1840-1928)
& SONS 1879 - PRESENT.
BIRMINGHAM *ARTS AND CRAFTS ERA JEWELRY DESIGNERS. BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND 1890-PRESENT.
GUILD OF THE (ARTHUR DIXON, MONTAGUE FORDHAM, CLAUDE NAPIER CLAVERING, E.R. GITTIN)
HANDICRAFT MARK IS A DIAMOND SHAPE WITH THE INITIALS IN THE POINTS B G H L.
BIRTHSTONES
*STONES THAT ARE PARTICULARLY MAGICAL FOR A PARTICULAR MONTH OR FOR THOSE BORN
WITH CERTAIN ZODIACAL SIGNS.
MONTH COLOR STONE/S MEANING
JANUARY - RED - GARNET INSURES CONSTANCY, TRUE
FRIENDSHIP AND FIDELITY
FEBRUARY - PURPLE - AMETHYST, ONYX OR PEARL - FREEDOM FROM PASSION AND
FROM CARE
MARCH - PALE BLUE - AQUAMARINE, BLOODSTONE, HYACINTH COURAGE, WIDSOM
APRIL - WHITE/CLEAR - DIAMOND INNOCENCE AND PURITY
MAY - BRIGHT GREEN - EMERALD, CHRYSOPRASE DISCOVERS FALSE FRIENDS
JUNE CREAM - PEARL, MOONSTONE, AGATE, CAT'S EYE - INSURES LONG LIFE, HEALTH
JULY - RED - CORAL/RUBY - DISCOVERS POISON/RIDS EVILS
AUGUST - PALE GREEN - SARDONYX, PERIDOT, MOONSTONE WITHOUT STONES, NO CONJUGAL FELICITY
SEPTEMBER - DEEP BLUE - CHRYSOLITE, SAPPHIRE, LAPIS - FREES FROM SADNESS
OCTOBER - TAN - VARIEGATED OPAL, TOURMALINE - DENOTES HOPE/SIGHT
NOVEMBER - YELLOW - TOPAZ, CITRINE, - FIDELITY, FRIENDSHIP, PREVENTS
SAD DREAMS
DECEMBER - SKY BLUE - TURQUOISE, BLUE ZIRCON - SUCCESS AND PROSPERITY IN LOVE
BISHOP, HAZEL *COSMETIC/ACCESSORY MFG./DESIGNER 1940'S.
BIWA PEARLS *LUSTROUS FRESHWATER CULTURED PEARLS (OFTEN IN THE SHAPE OR RICE GRAINS
OR BAROQUES) THEY COME FROM LAKE BIWA IN JAPAN.
BIZARRE *EXTRAVAGANTLY ODD, UNUSUAL OR SHOWY.
BJC *USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH A "DOG AND BALL" - JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR BEATRIX
JEWELRY CO., PROVIDENCE, RI. SINCE 1962
BLACK AMBER *INACCURATE TERM FOR JET
BLACK BEAUTY *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY CORO, INC. NEW YORK SINCE 1946
BLACK CORAL * A TRUE CORAL GROWTH MADE BY MARINE ORGANISMS CALLED POLYPS. BLACK CORAL WAS
FOUND IN THE RED SEA CENTURIES AGO AND MOST RECENTLY IN OUR OWN HAWAII. WHEN POLISHED IT HAS A SATINY SHEEN SIMILAR TO IVORY. NO TWO PIECES ARE ALIKE.
BLACK * NAME SOMETIMES GIVEN FOR HEMATITE ALSO A NAME GIVEN TO A SMOKY RHINESTONE
DIAMOND
BLACK GLASS *USED TO IMITATE JET OR ONYX. SEE JET OR ONYX. *ALSO REFERS TO A TYPE OF GLASS THAT WHEN HELD TO LIGHT SHOWS A DEEP PURPLE HUE.THE GLASS WAS MADE BY MANY
COMPANIES AS EARLY AS THE 17TH CENTURY AND IT IS STILL BEING MADE TODAY. IT TAKES
CAREFUL STUDY TO DETERMINE THE AGE BUT REGARDLESS THE GLASS IS COLLECTIBLE
TODAY.
BLACK HILLS *JEWELRY MFG. RAPID CITY, SOUTH DAKOTA. MFG. OF BLACK HILLS GOLD JEWELRY WHICH
MFG. CO. CONTAIN THREE COLORS OF GOLD IN EACH PIECE. A LEGEND SURROUNDING THIS TYPE
OF GOLD IS THAT "A YOUNG JEWELER TRAVELING TO THE BLACK HILLS TO FIND GOLD BECAME LOST AND DREAMED OF FINDING A BROOK WITH GRAPEVINES ALONG SIDE. WHEN HE
AWOKE HIS DREAM WAS TRUE. FEELING THAT THE DREAM SAVED HIS LIFE HE SET UP
BUSINESS IN THE TOWNS OF DEADWOOD AND LEAD WHERE HE MADE JEWELRY IN THE GRAPE AND LEAF DESIGNS USING THE 3 COLORS OF GOLD IN EACH PIECE. THIS WAS C.1849.
THE SMALL GRAPE CLUSTERS WERE MADE OF 10K YELLOW GOLD WHILE THE 12K GREEN AND
ROSE GOLD IS USEDFOR THE LEAVES. THIS JEWELRY IS STILL VERY POPULAR TODAY.
BLACK LIGHT *ULTRAVIOLET LAMP USED FOR IDENTIFYING SOME MINERALS. LONG OR SHORT
WAVE ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT EXCITES LUMINESCENCE OR FLOURESCENCE IN SOME
GEMSTRONES (RUBIES, PEARLS, OPALS,) AND NEARLY ALL NATURAL MATERIALS LIKE IVORY,
TURQUOSE AND AMBER WHICH HELPS IDENTIFY THEM. BLACK LIGHTS CAN BE PURCHASED AT JUST ABOUT ANY JEWELRY SUPPLIER AND CAN COST LESS THAN $50.
BLACK MAGIC *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY ELZAC CALIFORNIA JEWELRY CREATIONS, LOS ANGELES
INCORPORATING CERAMICS, LUCITE AND PLEXIGLASS SINCE 1943
BLACK ONYX *MISNOMER FOR CHALCEDONY DYED BLACK AND USED AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR JET
IN THE 1920-1930'S.
BLACK, STARR * JEWELRY DESIGNERS, MFG. 1876-1929 AS BLACK STARR, FROST 0 GORHAM, INC. 1929-1940
& FROST, NY ; BLACK STARR & GORHAM 1940-1962 - THE FIRM ORIGINATED AS MARQUAND & CO. C.1810.
THEIR MARK WAS A STANDING EAGLE WITH WINGS SPREAD AND BS&F OR BLACK, STAR &
FROST, LTD. UNDERNEATH. THEY CATERED TO THE RICH & FAMOUS AND THEIR DESIGNS WERE
FEATURED IN ALL THE FASHION MAGAZINES OF THE DAY.
BLACKAMOOR *REFERS TO THE ORNAMENTA L MOTIF OF AN AFRICAN MAN OR WOMAN. HIGHLY COLLECTED
NOW AND DONE BY SEVERAL DESIGNERS IN THE 1940-50'S IN EXQUISITE FORM. SOME STYLES
WERE DONE IN CHALCEDONY OR BLACK ONYX.
BLACKBAND,W.T *ARTS AND CRAFTS ERA JEWELRY DESIGNER - BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND 1885-1949
BLACKINGTON, * JEWELRY, SILVER DESIGNERS (W. BALLOU & R. BLACKINGTON. NORTH ATTLEBORO, MASS.
R. & CO. 1862 - PRESENT.
BLACKWORK *PARTICULAR TECHNIQUE OF EMBROIDERY OF THE TUDOR PERIOD IN ENGLAND (16TH CENT)
WHERE PATTERNS WERE PICK IN BLACK AND SILVER THREAD.
BLAKRAFT *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY BLACHER BROS., PROVIDENCE RI SINCE 1924. ALSO USED ON
HAND BAG FRAMES.
BLANC (BLONH) *FRENCH WORD FOR WHITE OR BLEACHED.
BLAN- *PERFUMERY.FOUNDED BY HOWARD KESTENBAUM AND HIS BROTHER, EUGENE IN NEW YORK C.
CHARD 1930. PERFUME "GARDENIA" 1932, "JEALOUSY" 1943. "CLIMAX" C. 1952(CREATED IN FRANCE).
BLISTER PEARL * AN IRREGULAR SHAPED PEARL SOMETIMES HOLLOW UNLIKE A BAROQUE PEARL WHICH IS A
SOLID IRREGULAR SHAPED PEARL.
BLITHE BLOSSOM *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY CORO, INC., NEW YORK SINCE 1956
BLOODSTONE *DARK GREEN CHALCEDONY SPRINKLED WITH RED SPOTS, LOOKING LIKE BLOOD. IN ANCIENT
TIMES IT WAS THOUGHT THAT BLOODSTONE STOPPED BLEEDING. THE VICTORIANS LIKED IT
TO USE FOR SEAL RINGS AND WATCH FOBS. IT IS ALSO CALLED BLOOD JASPER, ORIENTAL
JASPER AND HELIOTROPE. BLOODSTONE ALTERNATES WITH THE AQUAMARINE AS THE
BIRTHSTONE FOR MARCH AND IS ASTROLOGICALLY IN THE HOUSE OF ARIES, THE RAM. THIS
STONE WAS THOUGHT TO HAVE GREAT POWERS MEDICINALLY EVEN TO PROLONG LIFE!
THE HIGHEST QUALITY OF BLOODSTONES COME FROM INDIA AND RUSSIA.
THE NAME HELIOTROPE COMES FROM THE GREEK "HELIO" FOR SUN AND "TREPEIN" FOR TURNING.
THE RED AND BROWN SPOTS WHICH ARE SAID TO BE BLOOD ARE CAUSED BY IRON MINERALS.
BLOOMED GOLD *MATTE SURFACE ON GOLD CREATED WHEN THE ACID ON THE SURFACE OF THE GOLD
DESTROYS THE ALLOY, LEAVING A PURE GOLD 'BLOOM'.
BLOWN GLASS *BEADS THAT ARE MADE OF SHAPING A TUBE OF MOLTEN GLASS INTO HOLLOW BUBBLES THEN
BEADS MAKING THE TWO HOLES BY BLOWING INTO THE MOULD.
BLUE BIRD *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY STEIN AND ELLBOGAN, CO., CHICAGO, ILL. SINCE 1920
ALSO USED BY THE HENSHEL CO., INC. C. 1924.
BLUE DANUBE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY CORO, INC., NEW YORK SINCE 1929
BLUE DROP *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY AVON PRODUCTS, NEW YORK SINCE 1971
BLUE GOLD *ACTUALLY AN ALLOY OF GOLD MADE WITH 25% ARSENIC OR IRON. SELDOM USED NOW.
BLUE JOHN * A RICH BLUE SPECKLED FLUORSPAR FOUND MAINLY IN DERBYSHIRE, ENGLAND USED MOSTLY
FOR MENS SIGNET RINGS. KNOWN ALSO AS FLOURITE.
BLUE/WHITE *COLOR OF A VERY FINE DIAMOND - NOT A SCIENTIFIC TERM BUT A MODERN POPULAR ONE
DIAMOND
BLUE GOLD *BLUISH ALLOY OF GOLD MADE WITH 25% ARSENIC OR IRON.
BLUE NOCTURNE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY KAUFMAN AND RUDERMAN, NEW YORK SINCE 1946
BLUE RIBBON *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY WELLS MFG., ATTLEBORO, MA. SINCE 1936
BANDS
BLUE RIBBON *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY SIG DAWER & CO., NEW YORK SINCE 1929
BM *WITHIN A TRIANGLE - JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF BAUMAN -MASSA JEWELRY, ST.LOUIS, MO C.1889
BO-PEEP *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY BAUMAN-MASSA JEWELRY, ST. LOUIS, MO. FOR CHILDREN'S
JEWELRY SINCE 1923.
BOB O LINK *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY EISENSTADT MFG. ,ST. LOUIS, SINCE 1915
BOBBLESTONES *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY PHILIP MORRIS, INC., NEW YORK SINCE 1970
BOBIN SPANGLE *HAND MADE GLASS BEADS OF LAMPWORK, CRUM OR OTHER DECORATION. NAME COMES FROM
BEAD POSSIBILITY THAT THEY WERE MADE IN ENGLAND TO DECORAGE ENGLISH LACE BOBBINS.
BOBLEY *JEWLERY TRADEMARK FOR JOSEPH BOBLEY JEWELRY, NEW YORK SINCE 1955
BODKIN *A HAIR PIN MADE OF GOLD OR SILVER AND RICHLEY DECORATED.
BODOM *LARGE ANCIENT GLASS BEAD USUALLY WITH A BLACK CENTER, YELLOW SURFACE FOUND AND
POSSIBLY MADE IN GHANA.
BOEKHOUDT, ONNO *JEWELRY DESIGNER/ARTIST BORN IN 1944 IN HELLENDOORN, HOLLAND.
BOG OAK *IN JEWELRY-A PEATLIKE MATERIAL USED AND LOVED BY THE VICTORIANS ESPECIALLY
BOG WOOD THE IRISH. DARK BROWN IN COLOR AND CAN BE DISTINGUISHED FROM GUTTA PERCHA
WHICH IS SIMILAR IN APPEARANCE BY THE FACT THAT BOG OAK WAS CARVED AND NOT
MOLDED. IRISH BOG OAK USUALLY SHOWS A CASTLE, A HARP OR A SHAMMROCK. USUALLY
SET IN BRASS THE FITTINGS WERE USUALLY INEXPENSIVE. JET IS LIGHTER THAN BOG
OAK IN WEIGHT, DEAD BLACK IN COLOR, TAKES A HIGH POLISH AND WHEN YOU RUB IT ON
YOUR HAIR OR WOOL IT CAN BE ELECTRIC.
BOGOFF *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF SPEAR NOVELTY CO., CHICAGO. 1940'S-50'S
JEWELS BY *ALSO TRADEMARK OF JEWELS BY BOGOFF, CHICAGO BETTER JEWELRY SINCE 1946
BOHEMIA *JEWELRY CENTER OF THE WORLD DURING THE 17-18 CENTURY. LOCATED BETWEEN
CZECHLOSLAVAKIA AND GERMANY, BOHEMIA BECAME INCLUDED IN CZECH. AFTER WORLD
WAR I AND BEGAN TO 1700'S - PRESENT LY PRODUCE COSTUME JEWELRY. CORO, TRIFARI
AND HASKELL BEGAN USING THEIR BEAUTIFULLY MADE STONES FOR THEIR OWN DESIGNS.
GABLONZ IN NORTHERN BOHEMIA WAS A FAMILY OF JEWELRY MAKERS FAMOUS FOR THEIR
QUALITY. THEY WERE ALSO KNOWN FOR THE BEAUTIFUL HUES OF THEIR STONES. THEY
ALSO MADE MARCASITES AND BEADS AS WELL AS THEIR FAMOUS CRYSTAL AND GARNET
JEWELRY. *SEE LAMPWORK BEADING
BOHEMIAN *MISNOMER FOR ROCK CRYSTAL.
DIAMOND
BOHEMIAN *RED OR PYROPE GARNET. SOMETIMES CALLED BOHEMIAN RUBY. INEXPENSIVE.MOST
GARNET OFTEN FOUND IN ROSE CUTS OR CABOCHONS. USED WIDELY IN THE LATE 1800'S.
BOIN-TABURET *FRENCH SILVER CRAFTSMAN C.1925
BOJESEN, KAI *DENMARK METALWORKER IN SILVER C. 1930
BOLA *UNITED STATES INDIAN - LENGTH OF THIN BRAIDED LEATHER WITH DECORATIVE SILVER
TIPS ON EACN END AND WORN AROUND THE NECK SOMETIMES HAVING A SLIDING
ORNAMENT OR TOGGLE.
BOLIN, W.A. *JEWELRY DESIGNER IN SWEDEN AND RUSSIA C.1895-PRESENT. (CARL EDWARD BOLIN, WILLIAM JAMES BOLIN)
BOLLIN, MOYENS * JEWELRY DESIGNER C.1900 IN DENMARK
BOLITA *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY FORSTNER CHAIN CORP., IRVINGTON, NEW YORK SINCE 1950
BOLO *SEE ABOVE.
BOMBAZETTE *THIN SMOOTH FINISHED WORSTED FABRIC IN PLAIN OR TWILL WEAVE.
BOMBAZINE *FINE PLAIN OR TWILLED ENGLISH FABRIC WITH SILK WARP. OBSOLETE TERM USED FOR RAW
COTTON.
BOMBE *HAVING SWELLED OR EXPANDED SIDES.
BON A FIDE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY EISENSTADT MFG. CO., ST. LOUIS FOR COSTUME RINGS AND
ON FINE JEWELRY SINCE BEFORE 1908.
BONANZA *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY WM.R.KATZ CO., DALLAS, TX. SINCE 1965
BONA FIT *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY SPEIDEL CHAIN CO., PROVIDENCE RI SINCE 1913
BONE *USED IN JEWELRY-BEADS AND CARVED OFTEN MASQUERADING AS IVORY BUT THEY ARE
QUITE DIFFERENT IN APPEARANCE ONCE YOU LOOK GOOD. BONE IS WHITE OR YELLOWISH
WHITE, HARD AND DULL IN APPEARANCE UNLESS IT HAS BEEN WAXED. THE GRAIN IS
STRAIGHT BLACKISH OR GRAYISH LINES OR DOTS. IT CARVES DRYLY WITH POINTS AND
ANGULAR MOTION. WHEN IT AGES IT YELLOWS.
BONE AMBER *VARIETY OF AMBER THAT IS OPAQUE AND INCLUDES A MASS OF CLOSELY-SPACED
AIR FILLED CAVITIES THAT RESULT IN A CLOUDY APPEARANCE.
BONEBAKKER & *JEWELRY DESIGNERS FROM HOOLAND C.1767-PRESENT.
& SONS
BONNER, J. *ARTS AND CRAFTS ERA JEWELRY DESIGNER
BONNIE BELL *PERFUMERY/COSMETIC COMPANYCLEVELAND, OH; C.1927; "ENGLISH BLUEBELLS: "FINAL
TOUCH"
BONWIT *PERFUMERY/DEPARTMENT STORE NY, NY; C.1935; "CHAMOIS", "VICTORIAN KEEPSAKE" TELLER, INC.
BOOK CHAIN *A CHAIN NECKLACE WITH FOLDOVER LINKS SOMETIMES ENGRAVED OR DESIGN STAMPED.
POPULAR IN THE MID TO LATE 19TH CENTURY.
BOOKER T. *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY MORTON E. MILLS/BOOKER T. WASHINGTON JEWELRY CO.,
WASHINGTON NEW YORK SINCE 1947
BOOTARIA *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY KITTY KELLY SHOE CORP., NEW YORK SINCE 1967
IMPORTE'
BORDEAU *CLARET COLOR, CLEAR DEEP RUBY-RED AS THE WINE FROM BORDEAUX GRAPES
(BOR DOE)
BORNEO *SEE SADLER, F.H.
BOTAY *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USEDBY PAUL FLATO SALES CORP., NEW YORK SINCE 1953
BOUNTY OF *JEWELRY TREDEMARK USED BY LINMARK INTNNL.CORP, NEW YORK FOR PEARL JEWELRY
THE SEA SINCE 1952.
BOUCHER, MARCEL * JEWELRY DESIGNER FROM 1937-1971 COMING TO THE US FROM FRANCE AND DESIGNING
ET CIE FOR CARTIER AND TIFFANY. PIECES ARE PRIZED FOR THEIR BAGUETTES AND
EXCITING COLORED STONES. EACH PIECE IS SIGNED "BOUCHER" AND MOST CONTAIN A
NUMBER. THE "MB" WAS USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE "BOUCHER" C.1940-50.
A LINE WAS MADE IN MEXICO FOR BOUCHER CALLED "PARISIANNA". BOUCHER'S WIFE,
SANDRA, LEFT TIFFANY'S AND CONTINUED THE BOUCHER COMPANY AFTER HER
HUSBANDS DEATH IN 1965. THE JEWELRY IS KNOWN FOR ITS QUALITY AND USE OF
BAGUETTES AND OUTSTANDING STONES. VERY COLLECTIBLE IS A JEWELRY GROUP OF
"EXOTIC BIRDS".
BOUCHERON *LEADING FRENCH JEWELRY FIRM FOUNDED IN 1858 IN THE PALAIS ROYAL. PARIS BY FREDERIC
BOUCHERON (1830-1902) AND NOW HAVING THE MAIN ESTABLISHMENT AT 26 PLACE
VENDOME, PARIS. SPECIALIST IN GEMS AS WELL AS A DESIGNER OF LUXURY JEWELRY.
WELL KNOWN FOR THEIR EXQUISITE GEM SET JEWELRY. FIRM REMAINS FAMILY RUN WITH BRANCHES
ALL OVER THE WORLD.
BOUCHETTE *(BOO SHET) LARGE BREASTPLATE BUCKLE . SHOPS ARE ALSO LOCATED IN BIARRITZ,
LONDON AND NEW YORK.
BOUCLE *(BOO CLAY) WOVEN OR KNITTED SO SURFACE HAS LOOPED OR KNOTTED APPEARANCE.
FRENCH WORD FOR "CURLED"
BOUDOIR *(BOO DWAR) *LADY'S PRIVATE ROOM OR BEDROOM
BOULLE WORK *SPECIAL INLAY TECHNIQUE OF CHARLES ANDRE BOULLE USING TORTOISSHELL AND GERMAN
SILVER, BRASS OR PEWTER. ASSOCIATD WITH LOUIS XIV AND REGENCE PERIODS.
BOULTON, *1728-1809. LEADING MANUFACTURER OF METAL OBJECTS IN BIRMINGHAM AND SHEFFIELD
MATTHEW LEADING CUT STEEL MAKER AND VAST QUANTITIES OF BUTTONS.
BOUQUET PIN *A PIN OR STICKPIN WITH A HOLLOW VASE USED TO HOLD A SMALL FLOWER OR BOUQUET.
SOMETIMES DONE IN STERLING AND SOMETIMES WITH A SMALL CLASP TO SECURE THE
FLOWER. SOMETIMES CALLED A POSEY PIN.
BOUTON PEARL *NATURAL PEARL OF CULTURED PEARL THAT IS FLAT ON ONE SIDE OR BUN SHAPED. USED IN
EARRINGS, FINGER RINGS AND CUFFLINKS.
BOUTONNIERE *FLOWER OR SMALL BOUQUET WORN IN A BUTTONHOLE. FRENCH WORD FOR BUTTONHOLE.
BOURBON *PERFUMERY.NEW ORLEANS, LA; C. 1920; "KUSKUS"FRENCH PERFUME MFG.
BOURJOIS *PERFUME COMPANY STARTED IN PARIS C. 1863. THEY ARE ALSO CREATORS OF THE FIRST
"POWDER" COMPACT. NOTED PERFUMES "MANON LESCAUT", ETOILE D'AMOUR" C. 1903
"ASHES OF ROSES" C. 1909. NOTED FOR "EVENING IN PARIS' AND ITS FAMOUR COBALT BLUE
BOTTLE. ANOTHER COLLECTIBLE BOTTLE BY BOURJOIS IS "KOBAKO" DESIGNED LIKE A
CHINESE SNUFF BOTTLE.
BOUTON *NY, NY, :1930'S; "AMBRE D'OR" "RECKLESS"
BOUTTIER *FRENCH FOR ONE WHO DEALS IN BOOTS OR SHOES.
BOWENITE *SOFT STONE RESEMBLING JADE IN A YELLOW/GREEN TO BROWN COLOR AND
EASILY CARVED. IT IS MINED IN NEW MEXICO.
BOX CLASP *REFERS TO THE CLOSURE FOR BRACELETS AND NECKLACES WITH A SLOT THAT ACCEPTS A
SPRING TYPE CATCH .
BOX SETTING *A BOX SHAPED SETTING FOR A STONE WITH THE EDGES PRESSED DOWN OVER THE STONE TO
HOLD IT IN PLACE.
BOYDEN *FOUNDED SHOP MANUFACTURING JEWELRY, TROPHIES AND ECCLESIASTICAL WARES IN
FRANK S.CO. CHICAGO ALONG WITH FRED C. MINUTH. SHOPMARKS ARE F.S. BOYDEN;CHICAGO; LETTER "F"
WITHIN A LARGE LETTER "B". BOYDEN WAS ACTIVE 1861 - 1943 AND MINUTH 1884-1966. THEY
ARE CURRENTLY ACTIVE AS BOYDEN-MINUTH CO.
BOYTON, *LONDON, ENGLAND SILVER METALWORKERS C.1900-1940 MARK IS A CLOVER SHAPE WITH THE
CHARLES & SON INITIALS C B & S
BR *INTERTWINED MARK FOR BERNARD ROSS, INC. ISLAND PARK, NY C. 1954 FOR JEWELRY ITEMS.
BRACELET *POPULAR JEWELRY ITEM ENCIRCLING THE WRIST OR ARM AND EVEN ANKLE.
THEY HAVE BEEN POPULR SINCE ANCIENT TIMES. THE PERIOD 1850 - 1950 FROM THE FRENCH
PRODUCED "JOINTED" WIDE CUFF BRACELETS AND UNJOINTED BANGLES OFTEN WORD 'BRAS'
GIVEN IN FRIENDSHIP AS IN FRIENDSHIP RINGS AT A LATER DATE. MEANING ARM. BRACELETS
WERE WORN BY INFANTS AS WELL AS ADULTS OFTEN DECORATED WITH A PIECE OF CORAL
OR SOME PROTECTIVE GEMSTONE. BRACELETS REFLECTED THE CHANGING DESIGNS OF THE
ERAS. FROM 1900 - 1905 CHARM BRACELETS WERE POPULAR AND THE REEMERGED IN
POPULARITY IN THE 30 'S. SOME WERE MADE OF MESH IN THE VICTORIAN DAYS AND SOME HAD
A LOCK AND KEY OR TASSELS HANGING FROM THEM. IT IS THOUGHT THAT BRACELETS GIVE
ILLUSION AND BEAUTY TO THE ARM. TYPES OF BRACELETS ARE "THE BANGLE" SIMPLY A
CIRCULAR BRACELET THAT SLIPS OVER THE HAND NOT NEEDING A CLASP AND MADE OF MANY
DIFFERENT MATERIALS FROM GOLD TO PLASTIC. "THE SLAVE BRACELET" IS SIMILAR TO
A BANGLE BUT IS WORN HIGHER ON THE ARM. A "TAB BRACELET" IS ONE BANGLE WITH A SOLE
MOTIF OR CHARM. A "CUFF" BRACELET IS OVAL OR ROUND AND USUALLY HAS A HINGE FOR
PUTTING ON THE WRIST. IT FITS TIGHTER THAN THE BANGLE. THE "CHARM" BRACELET IS A
CHAIN LINK TYPE BRACELET WITH DANGLING CHARMS SOMETIMES DEPICTING MEMORIES OR
ACTIVITIES IN ONES LIFETIME. A "FLEXIBLE" BRACELET HAS METAL OR STONE SET MOTIFS AND
A CLASP AND ARE MADE OF DIFFERENT MATERIALS. A "SPIRAL" BRACELET IS ONE SINGLE
LONG LENGTH OF BEADING, METAL OR STONES AND WINDS AROUND THE WRIST OR ARM
THREE OR FOUR TIMES. THE "INDIAN OR GAUNTLET" BRACELET IS A RIGID OVAL THAT
COVERS 3/4 OF THE WRIST WITH ONE OPEN SIDE. THEY COME ALSO FROM PLAIN TO HIGHLY
DECORATED. THE MORE MODERN "DIAMOND, WATCH OR PEARL BRACELETS" ARE MOSTLY
ADD A LINK OR STONE, BEAD AND CAN BE ADDED TO FOR MANY YEARS.
TYPES OF BRACELETS :
ANKLE - WORN AROUND THE ANKLE ALSO CALLED ANKLET
ARMBAND - WORN ON THE UPPER ARM, USUALLY METAL. ORIG. IN EGYPT
BANGLE - NARROW ROUND RIGID OF VARIOUS MATERIALS SOMETIMES WORN IN SETS
CHAIN - MADE PRIMARILY OF CHAINS
CHARM - CHAIN ON WHICH ONE OR MORE OBJECTS ARE HUNG.
CUFF - OVAL SHAPED RIGID WITH OPENING IN BACK.
EXPANDABLE - SPRING LINK METAL THE STRETCHES NEEDING NO CLASP
HINGED - HAVING A HINGE TO OPEN WIDE FOR EASE IN WEARING
ID - USUALLY HAVING LARGE LINKS WITH A METAL PLAQUE ENGRAVED WITH NAME OR INITIALS
MALI - HANDMADE LEATHER DECORATED WITH TINY GLASS BEADS. ORIG. IN AFRICA
MADONNA - ROUND RUBBER BANGLES WORN MANY AT A TIME. NAMED FOR ROCK STAR
MEDIC ALERT - WORN TO INDICATE MEDICAL CONDITION, BLOOD TYPE, ETC.
MESH - MINUTE METAL LINKS OR CONTINUOUS WOVEN.
SCARAB - UADE OF USUALLY BEZELED OVAL SEMI PRECIOUS STONES I.E. LAPIS, CHALCEDONY
ENGRAVED TO LOOK LIKE EGYPTIAN BEETLES. ORIG. IN EGYPE.
SLAVE - ORNATE RING CONNECTED BY CHAIN TO A BRACELET WORN AROUND THE WRIST
ORIG. IN EASTERN COUNTRIES.
SLEEVE - ORNATE WORN AROUND UPPER ARM OVER SLEEFE TO MAKE PUFFED SLEEVE.
SLIDE - SMALL PIECE OF PIERCED METAL WHERE FINE FLAT CHAINS ARE THREADED THRU
ORNAMENTAL PLAQUES.
SNAKE - METAL IN FORM OF A SNAKE COILED AROUND THE ARM. ORIG. GREEK.
SPRING - BEADS STRUNG ON FLEXIBLE WIRE IN A SPIRAL.
BRADE, CHRISTINA * JEWELRY DESIGNER BORN IN LEISNIG, GDR IN 1936.
BRAID *NARROW STRIP MADE BY INTERTWINING SEVERAL STRANDS OF SILK, COTTON OR HAIR.
BRAMSON *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY GRAMSON, INC., OAK PARK, ILL. SINCE 1932
BRANDT *FOUNDED IN 1914 IN CHICAGO THEY SPECIIALIZED IN JEWELRY AND HOUSEWARES. CLOSING
METAL IN 1923. THEIR SHOPMARK WAS BRANDT METAL C RAFTERS.
CRAFTERS
BRANDT, EDGAR *PARIS, FRANCE METALWORKER 1900-1930
BRADLEY *NY NY; 1910; "AMRA" "WILDWOOD"
D.R. & SON
BRAGG, T AND J *BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND JEWELRS IN GOLD AND ENAMELS (THOMAS PERRY BRAGG,
THOMAS BRAGG, JOHN BRAGG) C.1844-
BRAQUE, GEORGES *PAINTER BORN 1882 IN FRANCE AND LEADER IN CUBISM AND COLLAGE MOVEMENTS. HE WAS A
COLLEAGUE OF PICASSO AND THEIR DESIGNS INFLUENCED ALL VENUES OF ART AND ADORNMENT.
BRASON *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR J.BRAUNSTEIN, PHIL.PA., SINCE 1949
BRASS *A COPPER-BASED ALLOY WITH ZINC AS THE MAJOR ALLOY ELEMENT. WHEN YOU TEST
FOR GOLD IF THE NITRIC ACID TURNS GREEN ON CONTACT WITH THE METAL, YOUR
"GOLD" IS BRASS.BRASS WAS USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF UTILATARIAN ARTICLES
AS WELL AS DECORATIVE ACCESSORIES. ALMOST ANYTHING BRASS IS COLLECTIBLE
BECAUSE OF THE INTRODUCTION OF SIMILAR ITEMS IN PLASTIC.
BRATEAU,JULES * FRENCH METALWORKER FOR BOUCHERON. SPECIALIZING IN PEWTER.
BRAZILLIA FIRE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF VARGAS MFG., PROVIDENCE RI SINCE 1971
BRD *JEWELRY TRADEMARK OF BAYARDI BROS., INC., NEW YORK SINCE 1962
BREAST CHAIN *TYPE OF LONG CHAIN WORN AS AN ORNAMENT EXTENDING OVER THE BREAST AND
BACK USUALLY COMPOSED OF MANY ORNAMENTAL DISCS OR BEADS.
BREESE, *METALSMITH PRODUCING JEWELRY AND SILVERWARE IN THE KALO SHOP STYLE IN CHICAGO
EDWARD H. ILLINOIS FROM 1921 UNTIL APPROX. 1940. HIS SHOPMARK WAS STERLING/HAND WROUGHT/EHB
BREGUET *1747-1823. FRENCH CLOCK AND WATCHMAKER UNDER LOUIS XVI.,
ABRAHAM L.
BRELLOQUE *SMALL SHARM IN FORM OF STATUETTE WORN ON A WATCH CHAIN.
BRENNER, JULES *POSTWAR MODERN JEWELRY DESIGNER.
BRIDALOK *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR COLONIAL MFG. CO., NEW YORK SINCE 1948
BRIER MFG. *MFG OF JEWELRY C.1920-1978. SPECIALIZING IN GOLD-FILLED COSTUME. USED THE
TRADEMARK 'LITTLE NEMO".
BRIGGS, BATES *JEWELRY MFG., ATTLEBORO, MA. SINCE 1955 USING THE TAG "THE LAWS I LIVE BY"
&BACON, CO. ALSO USED TRADEMARK "CARMELITA ".
BRIGHT A CUT *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY JEWEL-SMITHS, INC., BOSTON, MA. SINCE 1946
BRILLIANT *ANOTHER NAME FOR A DIAMOND WITH 58 FACETS.
BRILLIANT CUT *MODERN STYLE OF FACETING A STONE WITH 58 FACETS DESIGNED BY MARCEL TOLKOWSKY
IN 1919.
BRILLIANT PERIOD *REFERS TO THE AMERICAN PERIOD IN CUT GLASS (1880-1910) CHARACTERIZED BY
GEOMETRIC PATTERNS AND LEAD GLASS WITH DEEP CUTTING.
BRILLIANTS *ANOTHER TERM FOR PASTE, STRASS OR RHINESTONES. A CATCH,ALL PHRASE
BRILLION *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY D.SWAROVSKI & CO., AUSTRIA SINCE 1962 INCORPORATING
RHINESTONES AND CRYSTALS.
BRIOLETTE *(BREE O LET)PEARSHAPED OR OVAL CUT DIAMOND OR OTHER STONE WITH SURFACE CUT IN
LONG TRIANGULAR FACETS.
BRISE FAN *IVORY FAN POPULAR IN THE 18TH CENTURY ENGLAND COMPOSED ENTIRELY OF
STICKS AND GUARDS WITH UP TO THIRTY PIERCED OR PAINTED BLADES
LINKED AROUND THE PERIMETER WITH RIBBONS.
BRISTOL *ANOTHER NAME FOR ROCK CRYSTAL.
DIAMOND
BRISTOL GLASS *TRANSPARENT DEEP-BLUE GLASS USED FOR BEADS AND OTHER ORNAMENTATION.
BRITANNIA *SILVER ALLOY OF 958 PARTS SILVER TO A THOUNSAND OF METAL. INTRODUCED IN ENGLAND
STANDARD IN 1697 AND IN 1720 THE PREVIOUS STERLING STANDARD WAS RESTORED.
BRITE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY BRITE MFG., PROVIDENCE RI FOR MENS AND WOMENS
COSTUME JEWLERY SINCE 1941
BROADHEAD, CAROLINE *JEWELRY DESIGNER BORN 1950 IN ENGLAND.
BROCADE *FROM LOW LATIN FOR "TO EMBROIDER". ORIGINALLY A FABRIC OF SILK, SATIN,
OR VELVET VARIEGATED WITH GOLD AND SILVER OR RAISED AND ENRICHED WITH
FLOWERS, FOLIAGE AND OTHER ORNAMENTATION. DONE ON A JACQUARD LOOM.
BROCADE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR THE WEIDLICH BROS., BRIDGEPORT CONN, ON SILVER PLATED
NOVELTIES SINCE 1923
BROCATELLE *ORIGINALLY AN IMITATION OF ITALIAN TOOLED LEATHER. ALSO A CALCAREOUS STONE OR
MARBLE HAVING A YELLOW GROUND FLECTED WITH WHITE, GRAY AND RED.
BROCHE *SILK OR SATIN GROUND FABRIC SIMILAR TO BROCADE.
BROCHETTE *(BRO SHET) SMALL BROOCH
BROGDEN, JOHN *1842-85. LONDON JEWELER AND GOLDSMITH IN THE EGYPTIAN AND ASSYRIAN MOTIFS.
BROLAY *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY BROWN, BARZILAY, INC., NEW YORK SINCE 1930
BROMSGROVE * ORNAMENTATION AND APPLIED ART; ENGLAND; 1890-?, WALTER GILBERT, ARTHUR GASKIN
GUILD OF APPLIED ART - GEORGINA GASKIN, JOSEPH HODEL.
BRONZE *A COPPER-BASED ALLOY WITH TIN AS THE MAJOR ALLOY. FURTHER DEFINED
BY A SECOND ALLOY ELEMENT SUCH AS SILICON OR ALUMINUM.
USED FOR SCULPTURE IN ANCIENT GREECE AND ROME AS WELL AS CHINA AND
AFRICA. AS BRONZE AGES AND REACTS WITH CHEMICALS IT TAKES ON A GREENISH
TINT AND MATTE SURFACE CALLED A PATINA. A PATINA CAN ALSO BE CHEMICALLY
INDUCED. SOME OF THE EARLIEST AMERICAN SCULPTORS WERE THOMAS BALL, LEONARD
VOLK AND GEORGE BESSELL. HISTORICAL FIGURES WERE POPULAR AS WERE THE
LATER REMMINGTON AMERICAN WEST BRONZES. ART NOUVEAU LADIES AND
ANIMALS WERE ALSO POPULAR. THESE ARE BEING RECAST AND SHOULD BE
PRICED AS SUCH. THE RECAST BRONZES ARE NOT SO DETAILED AND ARE USUALLY
SMALLER THAN THE ORIGINAL DUE TO THE SHRINKAGE OF THE MOLD.
BRONZE- *GILDED BRONZE
DORE
BRONZED *HAVING THE APPEARANCE OF COPPER OR BRONZE EITHER PAINTED ON OR
APPLIED ELECTROSTATICALLY.
BROOCH *A PARTICULARLY LARGE, FINE PIN WORN ON THE CHEST SOMETIMES AT THE NECK. MADE IN A
VARIETY OF DESIGNS TO REFLECT THE ERA AND IN MANY DIFFERENT METALS SOME CONTAINING
PRECIOUS GEMS, DIAMOND, PEARLS AND LATER COSTUME JEWELRY WITH RHINESTONES.
BROSAMER, * 1480-1554. GERMAN DESIGNER OF JEWELRY.
HANS
BROSSE *FOUNDED IN 1854 THIS FRENCH COMPANY IS KNOWN FOR THE EXCELLENT QUALITY OF
VERRERIE BOTTLES,CRYSTAL AND GLASS. THEY CONTINUE TODAY MAKING HIGH QUALITY,
STOPPERED SEMI AUTOMATIC BOTTLES FOR COMPANIES SUCH AS WARNER, GUY
LAROCHE, GIORGIO, HERMES, RICCI, UNGARO, GRES AND GUERLAIN. THEIR TRADEMARK
ON THE BOTTLE IS VB OR BR.
BROWNSWORTH, ANN *JEWELRY DESIGNER BORN 1950 IN AUSTRALIA.
BRS *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY MORRIS BRESSMAN, NEW YORK SINCE 1962
BRUSHED GOLD *TYPE OF TEXTURED GOLD HAVING A MATT FINISH MADE BY USING A WIRE BRUSH ON A LATHE.
BUBBLE O BILL *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY ROBERT J. CORCORAN, BEVERLY HILLS, CA. SINCE 1951
BUBBLEITE *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY GALL NOVELTY CO., DALLAS, TX SINCE 1955
BUCKLES *USED TO FASTEN A BELT, SASH, SHOES, CAPES AND/OR HATS. IT WAS ACTUALLY A TYPE OF
BROOCH WITH A SIMULATED HASP THAT WAS PINNED IN FRONT OF A BELT , SASH OR
SHIRTWAIST. MADE FROM MANY DIFFERENT MATERIALS FROM GOLD TO BOUCHETTE TO
CHROME. CARRIED MANY DESIGNS AND SOMETIMES USED GEMSTONES OR PEARLS.
THEY WERE FASHIONABLE ON BELTS AFTER THE TURN OF THE CENTURY. SOME
SHOE BUCKLES CAME IN OXIDIZED SILVER AND WERE USED TO DECORATE. SOME WERE MADE
FROM CUT STEEL WHICH WERE BEAUTIFUL AND COLLECTABLE TODAY. WITH THE DEMISE
OF QUEEN VICTORIA, BROWN CAME INTO FASHION AS WELL AS FRENCH GRAY. BUCKLES
CHANGED FROM THE TYPICAL SQUARE TO ANGULAR AND CUMBERBUND STYLES.
BUCKLEY,NADJA *JEWELRY DESIGNER C.1940-1950 OF ELEGANT JEWELRY. SOME WERE GOLD WASHED SILVER
AND SOME SET WITH SEMIPRECIOUS STONES. SHE ALSO DESIGNED ACCESSORIES/COMPACTS
ETC. HER JEWELRY SOLD ONLY AT THE FINEST DEPARTMENT STORES. ONE OF HER COMPACTS
SOLD IN 1945 AT BONWIT TELLER FOR $900. PIECES ARE RARE AND EXTREMELY COLLECTIBLE.
BUDDHIST *STRING OF 108 BEADS SOMETIMES ACCENTED WITH DANGLES OR PENDANTS.
PRAYER BEADS
BUDHOFF, INC. *JEWELRY MFG., NEW YORK C.1970 - CLAIMED A FAKE DIAMOND "DIA-BUD".
BUFF TOP *A LOW CABOCHON TOP GEMSTONE CUT THAT HAS A FACETED PAVILION.
BUFFALO *WOOLEN FABRIC HAVING A SHAGGY PILE AS BUFFALO FUR, INDIANS NEW THEM AS BUFFALO
ROBES.
BUFFALO ARTS *METALWORKERS; BUFFALO, NEW YORK C. 1900-1915 MOSTLY SILVER AND COPPER.
& CRAFTS SHOP
BUFFON, *ARTICLE OF NECKWEAR USUALLY OF GAUZE OR LINEN/LACE/ PUFFED OUT OVER THE BREAST.
BUFFONT POUTER PIGEON STYLE. POPULAR IN LATE 18TH CENTURY.
BUGLE BEAD *TYPE OF GLASS BEAD IN FORM OF AN ELONGATED HOLLOW CYLINDER SOMETIMES
USED AS A SEPARATOR OF LARGER BEADS AND ALSO USED PROFUSELY DURING THE
1920'S AS LONG FLAPPER NECKLACES.
BULGARI *LEADING ITALIAN JEWELRY FIRM LOCATED IN ROME. C.1881-PRESENT (GEORGE BULGARI,
CONSTANTINO BULGARI, GIORGIO, BULGARI, SOTIRI BULGARI)
BULGARIAN *ARTICLES FOUND IN THE REGION THAT IS NOW BULGARIA.DIFFLCULT TO FIND AND VERIFY.
BULLA *ANCIENT NECK ORNAMENT THAT CONSISTED OF TWO HINGED PLATES SUSPENDED FROM
A CORD OR CHAIN. THIS WAS REVIVED DURING THE VICTORIAN PERIOD AND AGAIN IN THE
1920'S.
BULLION LACE *HEAVY GOLD OR SILVER LACE.
BULLION *FINE SILVER OR GOLD PLATED WIRE COIL MADE TO PROTECT THREAD . ALSO KNOWN AS GIMP,
, PURL, NECKLET ENDS AND SOMETIMES FRENCH WIRE.
BULL'S EYE * GRAPHIC JEWLERY TRADEMARK FOR HERFF-JONES CO., INDIANAPOLIS, IND. SINCE 1946
BULOW-HUBE, *JEWELRY DESIGNER BORN 1927 IN SWEDEN.
TORUN VIVIANNA
BUNNY *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY UNCAS MFG. CO., FOR FINGER RINGS SINCE 1960
BURCHARDT *DESIGNER MARY BETH BURCHARDT OF MBB JEWELRY - CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY DESIGNS.
BURGES, WM. *ENGLISH JEWELER, AND ARCHITECT C. 1827-1881.
BURGUNDIAN *TRADITIONAL J19TH CENTURY JEWELRY ATTRIBUTED TO NORTHERN EUROPE. OUTSTANDING
JEWELRY DESIGN AND QUALITY WORN IN 14-15TH CENTURIES AND SUPPOSEDLY WORN BY THE
DUKES OR BURGANDY AND THEIR COURTS.
BURNING BUSH *JEWELRY TRADEMARK FOR CAROLE ACCESSORIES, LOS ANGELES, CA. FOR MENS AND WOMENS
JEWLERY SINCE 1963.
BURNTWOOD *JEWELRY TRADEMARK USED BY HAROLD GOLDKRANTZ, NEW YORK SINCE 1958 - COSTUME AND
FAUX PEARLS.
BURY,CLAUS *1946-. DESIGNER MAKER OF JEWELRY BORN IN HANAU, GERMANY. USES ACRYLIC
IN COMBINATION WITH GOLD.
BURY, POL *JEWELRY DESIGNER BORN IN 1922 IN HAINE-SAINT PIERRE, BELGIUM.
BUTLER & * BRITISH ANTIQUE JEWELERS AND DESIGNERS - NICKY BUTLER AND SIMON WILSON.
WILSON COLLECTORS OF ELEGANT JEWELRY THEN DESIGNERS OF THEIR OWN COMBINATION
OF STYLES. BEGAN AS ANTIQUE DEALERS IN JEWELRY IN THE LATE 1960'S AND LATER
DESIGNERS. NOW FAMOUS THE WORLD OVER AND ACCESSORIZING THE MOST FAMOUS.
BUTTERFLY *BUTTERFLIES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN PREFERRED IN PERSONAL ORNAMENTATION PROBABLY
JEWELRY BECAUSE OF THEIR BEAUTY AND FRAGILITY OF LIFE. THERE WERE BUTTERFLIES USED IN
JEWELRY AS EARLY AS EGYPTIAN TIMES. AMERICAN INDIANS CONSIDERED THE BUTTERFLY AN
HONORED INSECT AND FEATURE IT IN MUCH OF THEIR ORNAMENTATION. THE BUTTERFLY IS
VERY IMPORTANT IN CHINESE AND ASIAN CULTURES - USED BY ITSELF IT SYMBOLIZES JOY,
SUMMER. THEY HAVE BEEN DEPICTED IN JEWELRY USING A WIDE VARIETY OF MATERIALS SUCH
AS, PORCELAIN, JADE, SILVER, BEADS, FEATHERS, ENAMEL ,E TC. WEARING A BUTTERFLY
SOMEHOW SYMBOLIZES THE REVERENCE FOR THE BEAUTY OF LIFE NO MATTER HOW SHORT.
BUTTERFLY * DECORATIVE CHINESE KNOT USED IN NECKLACES, PENDANTS, TASSELS, ETC.
KNOT.
BUTTON *NY, NY; C.1935; "MAH-JONGG", "SEALED SECRETS"
GEORGE W.
BUTTON HOOKS *USED IN THE MID 1800'S AND DESIGNED TO AID IN BUTTONING HIGH BUTTON UP SHOES,
GLOVES AND COLLARS. THEY WERE MADE FROM ALMOST ANY CONCEIVABLE MATERIAL FROM
IVORY AND BRASS TO GOLD AND SILVER. SOME WERE EVEN ORNATELY CARVED WITH
GEMSTONES. PRICES VARY ACCORDING TO MATERIAL AND DESIGN.
BUTTONS *FASTENERS MOST USUALLY ROUND AND WOMEN'S DRESS BUTTONS CAME IN SETS OF
THREE AND WERE SOMETIMES JOINED BY A VERY DELICATE LOVELY LINK CHAIN
WHICH PREVENTED LOSS. BUTTONS WERE FOR A VERY LONG TIME CONSIDERED JEWELRY
AND WERE MADE AS FAR BACK AS ANCIENT TIMES IN A VARIETY OF MATERIALS FROM
NATURAL BONE, IVORY AND STONE TO GOLD, SILVER, PORCELAIN AND PLASTICS.
SOME WERE BEAUTIFULLY ENGRAVED OR HAND PAINTED. THESE BUTTONS ARE VERY
COLLECTABLE TODAY AND ARE EVEN BEING BROUGHT BACK AS JEWELRY.
RESOURCE: PRAIRIE PEDLARS, RT. 1, BOX 130, LYONS KS 67554 - VIDEO $15/CATALOG
BYPASS * BRACELET OR RING WITH OPEN ENDS THAT CROSS PARALLEL AT THE FOCUS POINT.
BYZANTINE *OF THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE CONSTANTINOPLE BECAME THE SEAT OF THE ROMAN
EMPIRE AD 330 AND AFTER THE FALL OF ROME IN 476 IT BECAME THE SEAT OF THE
BYZANTINE EMIRE UNTIL 1453. THE NAME BYZANTINE IS DERIVED FROM THE
ORIGINAL TOWN OF BYZANTIUM WHICH WAS RENAMED CONSTANTINOPLE BY THE
EMPEROR CONSTANTINE. THE DESIGNS THAT FLOURISHED HERE WERE COMPOSED
OF ROMAN FORMS OVERLAID WITH NEAR EASTERN MOTIFS. DOMES, ROUNDED
ARCH, MOSAICS.